Gate Valve Repair Guide

Many Dimension One Spas have a gate valve at each large jet pump to allow for easy repair or replacement without draining the spa. That’s pretty useful if a pump needs attention in mid-February when there’s ice and snow on the ground. Experience tells us there are 5 places where the gate valve itself can begin to leak. We’ll show you how to fix these leaks with the least amount of effort and expense. Please note, each of these fixes will require you to drain the spa and remove the large jet pump, but hopefully there won’t be snow on the ground when you need to tackle the job.

Repair #1

Replacing the O-rings

Figure 1-A

Figure 1-B

Figure 1-C

If a leak occurs where the collar attaches to the pump, (Figure 1-A), the O-ring may be the culprit. The O-ring can flatten over time causing leaks. You will need to remove the original O-ring and replace it with a new one. To remove the old O-ring, (Figure 1-B), insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the ring and the plastic collar and pop it out of its seat

Insert a new O-ring (part number 01510-371) in its place. (Figure 1-C)

We recommend replacing the O-ring on both Gate Valves at this time.

Repair #2

Replacing the Collar

Figure 2-A

Figure 2-B

Figure 2-C

If the collar itself breaks, (Figure 2-A), you’ll need a Split Nut – part number 01510-184, to replace it. Using a Dremel (Figure 2-B), cut the collar as shown. A hacksaw blade will work in place of a Dremel, but takes more time and patience. As you are cutting, be careful not to damage the fitting below the collar. Wedge a large flathead screwdriver into the cut and twist, (Figure 2-C), so the collar opens enough for easy removal. If this proves difficult, make a second cut near the first. This should make the collar easier to remove.

Figure 2-D

Figure 2-E

To install the new Split Nut, place one half under the fitting, (Figure 2-D). Lay the mating half of the union on top and line up the holes. Insert a screw into the recessed portion of the fitting and tighten halfway; (Figure 2-E). Thread the second screw almost all the way, then go back to the first screw and finish tightening it. Be sure everything is still aligned. Return to the second screw and tighten it completely. Install a new O-ring and reinstall the jet pump. All done!

Repair #3

Sealing the Base

Figure 3-A

Figure 3-B

Required tools:

01512-196K – Plastic Welder Repair

Note: Always wear rubber gloves when working with Plastic Welder

If a leak appears at the base of the valve (Figure 3-A), you’ll need to seal the appropriate joint inside the gate valve. Look about ¼” into the front of the valve assembly to locate the leaky joint (Figure 3-B).

Figure 3-C

Figure 3-D

Figure 3-E

Put on the rubber gloves and using the Plastic Welder Repair Kit, apply a bead of epoxy over the seam, (Figure 3-C). Spread it evenly with your forefinger, or a popsicle stick. Be sure to cover the entire seam, but keep the O-ring and collar clean. (Figure 3-D). You don’t want to get the Plastic Welder on these two components, so please, work carefully. Now, apply a bead of epoxy around the joint shown in 3-E and spread it evenly with your finger. Once the epoxy has cured, (about 1 hour), reattach the pump and you are done.

Repair #4

Sealing the Rear Joint

Figure 4-A

Figure 4-B

If you have a leaky front joint and are going to seal it, you may as well go ahead and do the rear one, too. This is where the back hose and gate valve are glued together, (Figure 4-A). You’ll find the rear joint 2 ¾” from the front of the valve assembly. If a leak develops there, the gate valve has to be cut out and replaced so sealing it preemptively is a good idea. Be sure to keep the epoxy out of the gate seat or you won’t be able to close the gate valve in the future.

With your rubber gloves on, apply a bead of Plastic Welder over the seam and spread it evenly over the entire joint with your finger or a mixing stick. (Figure 4-B). It’s easy to get a little epoxy in places it does not belong, so have a rag ready to wipe it off quickly, (it begins to set up in less than a minute).

Once the epoxy is dry, you’re all set!

Repair #4

Sealing the Valve Handle

Figure 5-A

Figure 5-B

This one’s a little different than the other repairs. If your gate valve is leaking at the top of the assembly where the metal stem enters the valve assembly, (Figure 5-A), you’ll have to drill out the center rubber gate. Push the valve handle all the way down so the gate is fully seated, (Figure 5-B).

Figure 5-C

Figure 5-D

Look into the valve and using a 2” hole saw, (Figure 5-C), cut out the center of the gate. Remove the plug and shavings, leaving a hole, (Figure 5-D). Leave the handle in the closed position too. The hole will allow water to flow through the gate valve, while the remaining portion of the gate prevents leaking from the top.

We hope you have found these quick fixes helpful. Please don’t hesitate to call us with any questions or comments on this instruction sheet. We’re here to help.